Two day trip to Llandudno

Nick Lilley, Thursday, 26 June 2025

I’ve recently returned from CWAM’s two day trip to Llandudno. Obviously, because it was a CWAM tour there was much more to it than tootling to the seaside, having a paddle and zapping back again. Howard led us on a cracking route and although I recognised some of it from previous visits to Wales, most of the time I hadn’t the foggiest idea in which direction we were travelling or indeed where we were which doesn't bode well for what follows.

Starting at a time when I am normally turning over for another half hour snooze and bypassing Worcester when my first cup of tea is being poured was mitigated by the pleasure of being on the bike. Coincidentally we followed the route of Roger’s run to Leominster ten days previous although with slightly less traffic. Our first stop was Morrison’s in Leominster where, I discovered, they sell four chocolate éclairs for £2. OK they’re not Patisserie Valerie but they fill a hole for the undiscerning sugar addict (me).

Then on, across the border (I could tell because there was a preponderance of the letter L on the signposts) to Llanfair Caereinion Railway Station for lunch. A pleasant rural station just 16 miles from Welshpool as the narrow gauge railway steams. Looking at the ever-changing forecast and being the not-so-proud owner of porous trousers, I donned wet-weather gear thereby ensuring the rest of the group enjoyed a dry afternoon – and so it proved.

Over the mountains (B4391) to Bala, which was new to me as I usually travel along Vyrnwy and over the moors past Aberhirnant. Another station, this time on the busier Ffestiniog Railway at Tan y Bwlch just above Lynn Mair was our afternoon stop.

No tour would be complete without me imitating John Paul II by kissing the tarmac but unfazed we pressed on through Beddgelert, Betws-y-Coed, Llanberis (in which order I’m not quite sure). Bethesda (one of the most unattractive villages in Wales) led us to the A55 North Wales Expressway where we fairly stormed along keen to get to the hotel before the rain, sadly missing out on the circuit of the Great Orme due to time constraints.

Howard described our hotel as “it’s not the Ritz” which I’m obviously unqualified to comment on but it was warm, dry and had a bar. Fortunately I shared a sea view room with Robert who didn’t snore, and the seagulls, who generally get a pretty bad press, were decidedly civilised, not tapping on the window until 7:45 am .

One of the peculiarities of Llandudno was that none of us could get a signal on our mobiles; a well-known anomaly as our 14 year old waitress who turned out to be 30 (our fluent Polish speaker needs a Specsavers appointment) told us over a convivial pizza. In fact lack of signal proved to have intermittent navigational repercussions whilst in Wales but we were fortunate to have Paul Harris who took on the role of pathfinder extraordinaire when required.

Next morning was damp and I increased my popularity by leaving the group sitting in the car park while I dashed back to my room having forgotten my jacket lining neatly hanging in the wardrobe. This was not as serious as leaving my wedding suit in my wardrobe when I gave my sister away three years ago; but that’s another story. Once on the road I managed the merest glimpse of Conway Castle before we turned off for Bethesda, which looked even more dismal than it had the night before. The clouds were low on the mountains as we ran beside Lynn Ogwen. It was the kind of scene where a disgruntled Turner, perched gnome-like on a rock beneath a dripping umbrella, would be madly washing his canvas with a thousand shades of grey, vainly hoping for a glimmer of sun so he could relieve the murk and slap on his chrome yellow. We found ourselves up in the foggy clouds for a while until the view suddenly opened up and there was a valley of green fields and hedges, bright skies above and the world was happy once again. Elevenses at the attractive Dragonfly Tearooms, sitting beside a small fishing lake on the A5 just outside Cerrigydrudion, was an excellent stop offering good cake packed with e numbers and friendly service.

Then it was over the hills (B4501) to Denbigh and on to pass the now defunct Ponderosa before descending Horseshoe Pass and squeezing through a jam-packed Llangollen. If you were quick enough there was a view of the canal just before it crossed on the Pontcysylite Aqueduct. Pretty confident that the rain was at an end now we had left Wales, I stripped off my over-trousers and jacket in Morrison’s car park in Oswestry before stuffing another four éclairs (they are quite small).

We managed to reach The Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre in Craven Arms just in time for an ice cream before it closed, after which we went our separate ways. With an aching shoulder having had an adequate fill of twists and turns, I let Howard lead me on an untaxing M5/M42/M40 route back to Longbridge Island.

For me, discovering some new roads on a great route in excellent company ensured two brilliant days. Thanks to Howard for organising it all and the whole group for making it so much more than enjoyable experience.

Thanks to Pathfinder Paul for the maps.