Llandudno 2026 - Two days in North Wales

Nick Lilley, Friday, 12 June 2026

There were nine insomniacs waiting in the A46 Starbucks as I, rubbing sleep from my eyes, struggled off my bike shortly after 8 a.m. Eager to start the journey, we were soon heading west. Once past the obstacle course on the outskirts of Stratford, we were off to the races. Even the often-frustrating A44 through Bringsty Common proved a satisfying ride, although too often the double white lines had faded into the tarmac. A quick stop for éclairs in Leominster, and we were making good time to Crossgates, where we headed north towards adventure and excitement.

Having made largely unhindered progress to our lunch stop at Llanfair Caereinion station, whilst cheerfully slurping a bowl of soup, I congratulated myself on having the good sense to fit a new front tyre the previous week. A quick inspection of the eclectic collection of European rolling stock (not typical of a Mid Wales heritage line), and we were off into rural Wales proper. A nice B road saw us to the top of Llyn Tegid and Bala, with mountain views all the way to Maentwrog.

Things couldn’t have gone better until, having passed pretty little Llyn Mair, we became bemused spectators at a duel of motorhomes as two of them did battle at the admittedly tortuous entrance to Tan-y-Bwlch station. The nice lady in the cafe, obviously feeling sorry for the over-inflated guy wearing wet weather gear for no conceivable reason, kindly gave me two slices of cake. A distant shrill whistle had the visitors up and out of the café to see an engine puff into sight and an extraordinary number of passengers alight from the small train.

Now in Snowdonia (which for me, being a cantankerous old git, will never be Eryri), we rode beside the goat-willow-banked Glaslyn, over the bridge into Beddgelert, and past the original Gelert shop (a kind of Primark for outdoor pursuits), now sadly abandoned. A quick right in Waunfawr took us over the top and down to Llanberis Pass, ingrained in my brain from geography lessons as a fine example of a valley carved by ice, with the glacial lakes of Llyn Peris and Llyn Padarn dammed by moraines. Skirting Bangor, it was but a zip along the Expressway to Llandudno and the decidedly unprepossessing back lane leading to our hotel.

Having sandwiched our bikes in the hotel’s car park, I reflected that it was no easy job to book in ten luggage-laden bikers squashed into a Lilliputian lobby. The joy of discarding weighty biker gear at the end of the day cannot be exaggerated, and it was a light-hearted band that set off for the pub and food an hour later. What better way to end a good day than a stroll along the pier and a final al fresco beer before bed?

A good breakfast set us up for the day ahead. Retracing our tracks along the North Wales Expressway, there were glimpses of the pale turrets of Conwy Castle and good views across the straits to Anglesey before we turned off to Bethesda. Undoubtedly having seen better days when Welsh slate roofed the world, I always find the grey village somewhat dispiriting. Just after Llyn Ogwen came our first real—if thankfully short-lived—rain. On Friday, despite the unsettled forecast and my pessimistic use of full wet-weather gear, Howard managed, with no little meteorological dexterity, to navigate away from what few showers we saw in the distance. Sadly, he eschewed such skills on Saturday and seemed to navigate towards every black cloud—not that I am one to complain. Through tiny Capel Curig, passing Swallow Falls and throwing an unexpected right in Betws-y-Coed, we joined the A470 down to Blaenau. After Ffestiniog, we took the B4407 across miles of remote moorland, through the hamlet of Ysbyty Ifan, to the A5 and the Dragonfly Tearooms.

A mile on, in Cerrigydrudion, we swung north up the B4501 to Denbigh, where we finally turned south on our return through Ruthin, past Ponderosa, desolate and unwanted in the midst of windswept moorland, before gliding down Horseshoe Pass and into bustling Llangollen. Having stopped for restorative éclairs at Morrisons in Oswestry, we bypassed Welshpool, heading for our final stop and ice cream at the Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre in Craven Arms.

As is often the case after a long journey, when the ‘best bits’ are behind you, the last leg seems to be the longest. Suffice it to say that by the time my bike was back in the garage, I was very tired, content, and satisfied that my appetite for bike touring had been well sated - for the moment.

It’s easy to describe a tour by saying we went here, then we went there, but of equal importance is the group, your fellow travellers and the social interaction. The chats during the breaks, the shared meals and the social dynamics that organically develop to enhance the overall experience and make the memories. I greatly enjoyed my downtime. As they say, quality time off the bike makes for quality time on the bike.

A successful tour has many components, an engaging route, well-timed breaks, competent navigation, selecting suitable refreshment stops and a realistic but not pedestrian pace are just a few. The crucial element, however, is the leader and fortunately for us Howard had obviously spent considerable time and effort planning and organising and ticked every box. A big thank you is well deserved.

Incedentally, as a guideline for other cake lovers, I achieved 65.5 miles to the éclair which I consider a reasonable MPE and testament to my metabolism.

If you’re thinking of touring Wales, (although they lack Morrison’s 4 for £2 éclairs), the following make for good breaks.

Llanfair Caereinion station SY21 0SF

Tan y Bwlch station LL41 3AQ

Dragonfly Tearooms LL21 0RU

Shropshire Hills Discovery Centre, Craven Arms SY7 9RS.